Tuesday, 26 April 2016

Sashimi Shinsengumi - Crows Nest, NSW

My deepest apologies to everyone. In the middle of outfitting our apartment with new furniture, I've come to neglect this blog a little. Actually no, that's only half true...I've allowed myself to use that as an excuse to avoid blogging for a little while. I've recently had a dining experience that left such a deep impression on me that I may have been a bit too afraid to blog about. I was afraid that my writing skills would be inadequate, so much so that the wonderful and eye-opening experience I had wouldn't have been able to be translated through to my readers. So, with that in mind, I've kept it to myself for almost a month. But now, I need to tell you about the time we ate at Sashimi Shinsengumi.

I've known about Sashimi Shinsengumi for a while now (they are pretty famous on the insta foodie network) but I'd never really had an excuse to go. But in conversing with my best man, Simon (before the wedding), he mentioned that he wanted to go too! So I jumped on that immediately and made a booking for 8 people the next day. I didn't exactly have 8 friends to dine with but I made the booking then extended the invitation to everyone hoping 6 other people would join us...which worked out! Seriously, we wouldn't have been able to dine there otherwise. Our booking was on the 30th of March, 2016 and I made my reservation at the end of November, 2015...that's how long the waiting list is for this place.

Sashimi Shinsengumi is situated inside a small shopping complex in Crows Nest so it's rather easy to get to. I'd still try and get there early anyway because although there's parking in the back, it can get taken up rather quickly by people dining at restaurants within the area. Enter into this unassuming local business centre through the back and the restaurant will be immediately to your right. And unassuming is really the best word for it since the store is quite literally to stainless steel islands fitted out like tables and a kitchen in the back. As you enter and sit down, you get the feeling that you're about to become audience to a spectacular theatre act. You're encouraged to go next door to fetch drinks or to go to the local bottle shop and buy alcohol (BYO with no corkage).


Before the meal starts, each diner will have a plate of appetisers waiting for them. This is, I believe, seasonal as each item is altered for each instagrammer I've seen dine at this restaurant. For our time, we had marinaded vegetables, karaage tuna fin, fried prawn and a fresh, raw oyster served with ponzu sauce. Each item is made with meticulous care and is well balanced in flavour and impact. Certainly, a great way to start a spectacular dinner.


As you and the other guests slowly finish your appetisers, Matsui san steps up to his station like a lone actor on an elaborate stage. All attention is immediately drawn to him and his hands, his speed and his knives as he quickly but precisely prepares morsel after morsel of delicious nigiri. I can't even begin to describe how technically amazing it was to watch Matsui san at work, and what amazed me more was that he could find the time to converse with me and my broken Japanese (that I spent 3 years studying mind you) and still dish out fantastic food. In keeping with tradition, I do away with the chopsticks and pick up each piece with my hands, making sure to only dip the tip of the neta (sliced fish) into soy sauce if needed. The whole 18 course meal starts off on the lightest fish and then moves through different stages and textures. about a third into the meal, Matsui san takes a small break to attend to the other table of guests who've also chosen to have an omakase meal that night.








When I said that this meal was like a theatre act, I really wasn't joking. As diners, you're given an intercession to breathe, talk, laugh and discuss amongst yourselves the progression of your dinner. Quite literally, none of the other diners had much of a chance to make conversation whilst eating as all of our attention was solely on the chef and his art. After Matsui san returns to our table, he picks up the pace again effortlessly and moves back on to the heavier flavoured fish. This time, our courses are much more distinct and pronounced. The more memorable pieces were the mackerel and the anago eel. The mackerel had a very strong flavour from the little dab of freshly grated ginger it was served with. This was most likely to help balance the intense and potentially overwhelming flavour of the fish. And the anago...oh man, that eel quite literally melted in our mouths. I've never in my life had another piece of eel sushi that was as good as this.












About two thirds of the way through, Matsui san again departs to tend to the other table and you and your friends are again left to reflect on the meal so far between yourselves. Despite having been a month ago, I still vividly remember the profound impact this meal had on me....it was everything I could have hoped for and more. I'd always, always wanted to eat a proper Japanese omakase sushi meal but I'd never had the chance to in my previous visits to Japan. So being able to dine at Sashimi Shinsengumi and share that with my friends...it was a life changing experience. As Matsui san returns to our table for the final act, you feel the meal really hit a climax as the flavours of each fish steadily becomes fattier and more moreish. The very last piece I had was the most memorable for me...despite my experience and research into sushi, I couldn't identify the last nigiri...all I knew was that it was overwhelmingly, mind-numbingly good. The torched smokiness melds together with this barely cooked flesh that melts away in your mouth with absolutely no difficulty. The perfectly cooked rice then carries and and helps the flavors linger for just a bit longer before your mind reluctantly returns to the dining room.



Overall, I can say with absolutely certainty that my very first omakase meal was my favorite sushi experience so far. I'm sure that I'll have many more chances to experience more expensive and exclusive omakase experiences in the future but it's this humbling experience that truly earns Matsui san my respect as one of Sydney's most valuable sushi chefs. Unfortunately, if you're planning on going soon, they won't be able to accommodate as their current location will be torn down in May/June for renovations. From our conversation, Sashimi Shinsengumi still has yet to find their next location but when they do, I guarantee that word will spread and they will be booked out again immediately. No matter how long the waiting list is, I implore you...try to get a booking. You will not find a more humble yet gratifying sushi experience anywhere in Sydney.

Sunday, 3 April 2016

BUTTER - Surry Hills, NSW

I mentioned that I had a disappointing experience with southern fried chicken lately right? Worry not, this disappointment quickly disappeared when I had the opportunity to dine at BUTTER a couple of weeks ago. Ever since they opened up, I'd been dying to hit up BUTTER but I hadn't had the opportunity to (I'd walked past the outside heaps of times but never got the chance to dine there with the Mrs). We finally got our chance a couple of weeks ago when my sister invited us out for drinks in the city. We decided to head out and hour or two earlier to the city so we could grab dinner before drinks. Ever since the George St closure, the city has become a horrid place to try and find parking (it was pretty bad before but now it's just unbearable). Surry Hills still has some parking but if possible, I'd suggest avoiding the drive altogether.


We got to BUTTER around 5:30pm and despite being Saturday, it was still pretty quiet (in terms of the expected crowd).This place is in no way "quiet", as soon as you walk past the gigantic glass wall of flashy sneakers, you hear gangster rap fill the room with a strong bass line and the rapid succinct flow of the wordsmiths. Everything from the deliberate neon lights to the menu and beyond points to one theme: this place makes you feel like a baller. The same decadence can be identified in their menu.

Being just the two of us, we opted against getting the size 13s ($60 worth of fried chicken served in a shoebox) but instead, the Mrs left me to order the appropriate amount of food for the two of us. To that end, I opted to grab a 3 pac, chicken sandwich and fries. To quench my thirst, I also decided to grab a melon slushie. To be honest: I could have done without the slushie...it taste very much like the artificial watermelon lollies and whilst it was an interesting flavour to begin with, it lost its charm rather quickly and left me wanting a more refreshing alternative.

In my opinion, southern fried chicken needs to meet 3 basic requirements: the batter needs to be extremely crunchy (lots of little crunchy bits sticking out), the coating needs to have a strong taste of the spice mixture used and the meat needs to be white meat (I'm normally all for coloured but in this one case, it needs to be white meat). BUTTER definitely meets these requirements and more...in fact, I don't think I've had southern fried chicken as good as they make it at BUTTER (maybe Hartsyard?). The chicken meat is so wonderfully juicy and tender and it's covered in this spectacularly crunchy shell. You get four choices of hot sauce ranging from O.G to some super hot level I'm tempted to try one day. Since the Mrs was having the 3 pac, I decided to keep it light and pick the O.G. I'll be honest, I appreciate hot sauce with my chicken but this tasted wayyyy too much like the korean chilli sauce that you have with noodles. If it actually tasted a bit different, I think I could have appreciated it much more. The slaw was really good though! Creamy and crunchy, it does initially taste just like KFC slaw but as you continue to savour it, other layers come in and make it a much more interesting experience.

Now, the next dish I've been craving for ages. It perfectly encapsulates the experience that is BUTTER...decadent and excessive but in all the right ways...utter and absolute gratification born in the form of the chicken sandwich. The same delicious fried chicken is wedged in between a milk bun that's been soaked in this delicious dashi butter with a pickle or two. As you take each bite, the crunchy batter, chicken juice, succulent chicken meat, fluffy milk bread and smooth, savoury butter all intertwine and make this overwhelming reaction of deliciousness. This reaction extends and permeates your entire body until it hits your stomach...and eventually clogs your blood vessels. Seriously, if you love heavy, thick flavours then this is the ultimate sandwich for you.


We also had the fries which were great in that they were really well seasoned but I could have done with not having the smoked aioli...too tart in my opinion and didn't really add to my experience. Overall, I really, really enjoyed my night at BUTTER. In fact, in the weeks since, I've recommended it to everyone and a few have found their ideal restaurant in BUTTER. If you too, love fried chicken, champers and rap music...I'd definitely recommend giving BUTTER a try.


Friday, 1 April 2016

Paramount Coffee Project - Surry Hills, NSW

The Mrs has been wanting to go to Paramount Coffee Project for years but we've just never had the chance. I mean, with so many new and exciting places opening up all the time, our list of ever expanding options just grows and grows right? Luckily, a couple of Sundays ago, we had a little breathing space to go out for a shopping spree. Since a majority of Surry Hills eateries weren't open for business, you're effectively left with the ones that are. As if following some kind of god given sign, we walked in, put our name down and waited for a table.

Paramount has been a popular lunch/brunch destination for some time now and you really see why when you walk in. I remember this being one of the first places I saw the minimalist white and wood industrial outfit that's become so popular recently.  The wide open space gives it a really inviting atmosphere and despite the frantic pace, you can feel comfortable tucked away in a corner having a private conversation.

As with any brunch, we ordered coffee as soon as we sat down. Maybe owing to how busy it was that weekend, our coffees didn't come out until we decided to order food (which was sometime after we'd seated and got comfortable). I wasn't sure if it was just me or if I was losing my palate but I really couldn't taste anything special or outstanding about the coffee at paramount. Granted, I remember it being creamy and nutty but it lacked depth for me.


We were seated right next to the little window where food went through the pass and so we could see when our dishes came out. The Mrs ordered the soft baked eggs which came out in a little clay ramekin. A good dollop of creamy labneh sat on top of a red chorizo sauce and green relish. This also came with a slice of sourdough toast, the Mrs at a bit and said that it wasn't suiting her palate as it was a bit too spicy. Good for me because I didn't much enjoy my dish so we swapped.

I ordered the southern fried chicken and waffles which on paper sounded like the most substantial and satisfying meal. I was rather disappointed with my first bite as the combination came across far too sweet for my liking. I suspect that there was maple syrup added to the waffles which in addition with the maple hinted gravy, overpowered the chicken a fair bit. I was also disappointed inthe batter of the chicken in that it lacked the crunch and spice you typically expect from southern fried chicken. The chicken itself was juicy and full of chicken flavour but the choice to use coloured meat may have affected the texture of the chicken. I knew I should have gone with my gut feeling and ordered the cheesesteak but, in the end, the Mrs ended up liking my dish more which meant it all worked out in the end.

If you've been reading my blog for a while, you'll know that I'm rarely this negative about food in general  (to be fair: it was still a good, hearty delicious meal) but I think the two years of anticipation really set us up for a bit of a let down. Though, that said, I'm also very willing to return since I'm convinced that the fault lied with me ordering the wrong thing. I've also recently had my southern fried chicken craving satisfied so if I do return, I'd be happy to try the other things they have on offer.

Thursday, 24 March 2016

Kensington Street Social

The Mrs just celebrated her birthday this Monday and while she didn't get to have the most perfect birthday ever (no thanks to her useless husband) we did get to enjoy a very impressive dining experience at Kensington Street Social. I'd been planning this dinner for a while now and as usual, it's rather hard for me to keep it under wraps since the Mrs is rather intuitive about these things (and I can't keep a poker face to save my life).

We got to the area with some time to spare but still had some difficulty finding parking...to be expected though because it is the kensington street. My advice: go earlier or take the train. Luckily, we managed to find parking in the nick of time and arrive at the restaurant 8pm on the dot. As we go in, we're led to a spot which they advised were the "best seats in the house"...they weren't joking as we got seated right at the bar where the open kitchen was. This meant we got front row access to the pass and all the action in the kitchen.


We started with some cocktails (it was a tough Monday for the both of us) and being a know-it-all like I am, I offered to pick our cocktails. I chose the cereal killer for the Mrs and the three little maids for myself. I would have thought she'd have liked the cereal killer since it looked sweet and creamy but I neglected the fact that she like sweet, fruity flavours more...so I ended up swapping with her...which was great! I liked the drink a lot more anyway.

The first dish to come to us was the squid ink crackers. Now, if you had to start your night at KSS with any snack, this is definitely the way to go. Imagine prawn crackers on flavour steroids..the salty, savoury crackers do really well in opening up your appetite and the creamy, airy mousse with trout roe that you dip the crackers into is simply divine.

Second to come was the vine tomato with burrata. This is probably the dish I see the most on Instagram and since the Mrs knew nothing about Kensington Street Social, I had to do some hard convincing for her to let me take charge and order it. That said, I'm positive that she's glad I did because this dish was mad impressive. A sweet and fresh tomato casing houses this intensely creamy burrata that when eaten creates this vibrant party in your mouth feeling. This combination is made richer and more moreish by the capers and the aged balsamic vinegar they pour on top. I've never had caprese salad before but if it's anything like this, I'd be happy to have that salad anytime.



After that, we got to sample one of the best dishes of the night: kingfish tataki with kohlrabi...I love raw kingfish possibly as much as I love salmon but I've only ever had it sashimi, as sushi or aburi (torched). I've never tasted kingfish in this fashion and I must say, its absolutely delicious. There's this vibrant verdant liquid that the fish sits in and along with the creamy dollops on the plate, each piece is elevated to a new level. Add to that the aromatic and herbaceous dill tips and man...sensual overload.



At this point I'm (we're) sufficiently impressed with each dish that's come out of the kitchen. One resounding thing we've noticed with each dish is that a lot of care, attention to detail and thought goes into everything. You can tell that each flavour profile is analysed and paired with the most appropriate elements to maximise enjoyment and satisfaction. This is why it came as so much of a surprise to me that the next dish (which I had the most hopes for) just didn't work. From the description on the menu and even as it is presented to you, everything looks great: charred kernels of corn sit in this corn puree that cups a lightly cooked organic hens egg. This is all topped with crunchy chicken scratchings and the gravy/sauce (poured from a cute little chicken shaped boat). In a visual and olfactory sense, this dish should be ticking all the boxes but I found that the husky, charred corn kernels just didn't work well with the puree. It made the dish taste too much of corn and frankly, I didn't enjoy it as much as I'd liked to.



But aside from that, the next couple of dishes were back to impressive which was great! It took quite some time before we got our mains but when we did we were so glad...first on the table was the wagyu rib eye with miso butterscotch and eggplant. There wasn't much eggplant to go around and the miso butterscotch tasted like vegemite (which is a divisive taste) but my god, that rib eye is good. I mean, it's wagyu so it has to be but it is good. Cooked to a perfect medium rare and so tender yet still so meaty...I'm sure this ticked all the boxes for the carnivorous Mrs.

My personal favourite of the night was the crispy skin mulloway with pippies and potato dashi and there's a reason for this: I don't generally like cooked fish...but I like this a lot. The mulloway was flakey yet still has a lot of texture to it and as you chewed you could really taste the freshness of the ingredient and how well balanced the seasoning was. The pippies were just slightly cooked so they were still plump and that unbelievably nice potato dashi is a thing to try...I'd just wished there was more.


As previously stated: despite the longer than expected wait for our mains, one particular point of service that irked us (I won't go into detail) and the disappointment of one particular dish, our experience at Kensington Street Social is definitely positive. Kudos to the kitchen staff who work so hard to push out these dishes because to maintain such quality and consistency in a high pressure environment is unbelievably difficult. I will say though that price wise, we paid almost the same amount as we did at NOMAD (not $$ but definitely not $$$) but we were more satisfied at NOMAD than we were at KSS. The Mrs and I believe it had to do with the flavour profile: the general theme we got around every dish was clean, crisp and fresh. Each dish worked to highlight the natural flavours of the produce and let the food speak for itself but in that, we also lose that moreish satisfaction. Still, Kensington Street Social is definitely a great place to eat at and worth it if you do go...I'm certainly glad I went and I encourage anyone else planning a visit to give it a try and see what you think.