I've known about Sashimi Shinsengumi for a while now (they are pretty famous on the insta foodie network) but I'd never really had an excuse to go. But in conversing with my best man, Simon (before the wedding), he mentioned that he wanted to go too! So I jumped on that immediately and made a booking for 8 people the next day. I didn't exactly have 8 friends to dine with but I made the booking then extended the invitation to everyone hoping 6 other people would join us...which worked out! Seriously, we wouldn't have been able to dine there otherwise. Our booking was on the 30th of March, 2016 and I made my reservation at the end of November, 2015...that's how long the waiting list is for this place.
Sashimi Shinsengumi is situated inside a small shopping complex in Crows Nest so it's rather easy to get to. I'd still try and get there early anyway because although there's parking in the back, it can get taken up rather quickly by people dining at restaurants within the area. Enter into this unassuming local business centre through the back and the restaurant will be immediately to your right. And unassuming is really the best word for it since the store is quite literally to stainless steel islands fitted out like tables and a kitchen in the back. As you enter and sit down, you get the feeling that you're about to become audience to a spectacular theatre act. You're encouraged to go next door to fetch drinks or to go to the local bottle shop and buy alcohol (BYO with no corkage).
Before the meal starts, each diner will have a plate of appetisers waiting for them. This is, I believe, seasonal as each item is altered for each instagrammer I've seen dine at this restaurant. For our time, we had marinaded vegetables, karaage tuna fin, fried prawn and a fresh, raw oyster served with ponzu sauce. Each item is made with meticulous care and is well balanced in flavour and impact. Certainly, a great way to start a spectacular dinner.
As you and the other guests slowly finish your appetisers, Matsui san steps up to his station like a lone actor on an elaborate stage. All attention is immediately drawn to him and his hands, his speed and his knives as he quickly but precisely prepares morsel after morsel of delicious nigiri. I can't even begin to describe how technically amazing it was to watch Matsui san at work, and what amazed me more was that he could find the time to converse with me and my broken Japanese (that I spent 3 years studying mind you) and still dish out fantastic food. In keeping with tradition, I do away with the chopsticks and pick up each piece with my hands, making sure to only dip the tip of the neta (sliced fish) into soy sauce if needed. The whole 18 course meal starts off on the lightest fish and then moves through different stages and textures. about a third into the meal, Matsui san takes a small break to attend to the other table of guests who've also chosen to have an omakase meal that night.
When I said that this meal was like a theatre act, I really wasn't joking. As diners, you're given an intercession to breathe, talk, laugh and discuss amongst yourselves the progression of your dinner. Quite literally, none of the other diners had much of a chance to make conversation whilst eating as all of our attention was solely on the chef and his art. After Matsui san returns to our table, he picks up the pace again effortlessly and moves back on to the heavier flavoured fish. This time, our courses are much more distinct and pronounced. The more memorable pieces were the mackerel and the anago eel. The mackerel had a very strong flavour from the little dab of freshly grated ginger it was served with. This was most likely to help balance the intense and potentially overwhelming flavour of the fish. And the anago...oh man, that eel quite literally melted in our mouths. I've never in my life had another piece of eel sushi that was as good as this.
About two thirds of the way through, Matsui san again departs to tend to the other table and you and your friends are again left to reflect on the meal so far between yourselves. Despite having been a month ago, I still vividly remember the profound impact this meal had on me....it was everything I could have hoped for and more. I'd always, always wanted to eat a proper Japanese omakase sushi meal but I'd never had the chance to in my previous visits to Japan. So being able to dine at Sashimi Shinsengumi and share that with my friends...it was a life changing experience. As Matsui san returns to our table for the final act, you feel the meal really hit a climax as the flavours of each fish steadily becomes fattier and more moreish. The very last piece I had was the most memorable for me...despite my experience and research into sushi, I couldn't identify the last nigiri...all I knew was that it was overwhelmingly, mind-numbingly good. The torched smokiness melds together with this barely cooked flesh that melts away in your mouth with absolutely no difficulty. The perfectly cooked rice then carries and and helps the flavors linger for just a bit longer before your mind reluctantly returns to the dining room.
Overall, I can say with absolutely certainty that my very first omakase meal was my favorite sushi experience so far. I'm sure that I'll have many more chances to experience more expensive and exclusive omakase experiences in the future but it's this humbling experience that truly earns Matsui san my respect as one of Sydney's most valuable sushi chefs. Unfortunately, if you're planning on going soon, they won't be able to accommodate as their current location will be torn down in May/June for renovations. From our conversation, Sashimi Shinsengumi still has yet to find their next location but when they do, I guarantee that word will spread and they will be booked out again immediately. No matter how long the waiting list is, I implore you...try to get a booking. You will not find a more humble yet gratifying sushi experience anywhere in Sydney.